How To Install James Hardie Trim Boards

How to Install Cobweb Cement Siding

Updated: Jul. 14, 2022

How to cutting, nail and install durable cobweb siding, plus caulking and painting tips.

Family Handyman

Half the cost of a fiber cement board siding job is labor, and then y'all can salve thousands of dollars past installing information technology yourself. A siding pro shows the tools and tricks needed for a weathertight installation.

Yous might as well like: TBD

Fourth dimension

Multiple Days

Complexity

Intermediate

Price

$501-m

Cobweb cement is tougher than other materials

Installing fiberboard cement siding

Fiberboard cement siding looks identical to wood in one case information technology's painted.

When yous want the classic look of wood siding coupled with lifetime immovability, fiberboard cement siding may well be your best option. Fiberglass cement siding is a blended made of Portland cement, silica and wood fiber. In one case painted, it looks well-nigh identical to woods. It'south available in many styles and widths, both smoothen and wood textured, and you withal get the crisp joints and details that'll make your home's exterior stand out. In improver, information technology's highly rot and insect resistant, won't burn down and paints beautifully.

Jaime Venzor has been in the siding business for more than than xv years. He started out installing mostly vinyl, but now fourscore percent of his work is fiber cement. He earned his good reputation with his customers by doing things the correct way, and he earned our thanks past sharing some of his noesis with us. And so read on and learn what Jaime thinks are the almost important tips.

Agree the starter 1/4 in. down

Create a baste border

Notice your most beat-up pieces of siding and rip them down into one-1/iv-in. starter strips. These strips, installed at the lesser, will brand your offset row of siding angle out to match the rest of the rows. Snap a line i in. to a higher place the bottom of the wall capsule as a guide. Install these fragile starter strips with a xv-guess trim gun. Snap another line for the bottom row of siding, positioning information technology so it will hang down an additional ane/4 in. from the starter.

Nailing Basics

Fiberboard cement siding can be paw-nailed, but because it's and so much harder and more breakable than wood, you lot have to predrill holes near whatsoever edge. Y'all can save yourself a bunch of time by using a pneumatic coil siding nail gun. Unfortunately, a siding gun will set yous back twice as much as a 15-estimate trim gun, and it's only half as versatile, so if installing fiber cement isn't your full-time gig, you lot may want to rent one (about $110 a week). Every manufacturer has specific nailing guidelines, but hither are some basic rules:

• Employ 6d or 8d galvanized or stainless siding nails and install a single nail nigh i-in. down from the top edge at each stud, no more than 16 in. autonomously. n Nail lengths should be called so they penetrate a minimum of 1-1/four in. into the solid woods (wood sheathings like OSB and plywood count toward the 1-1/four in., but "soft" sheathings similar fiber board and foam don't).
• Don't bulldoze nails into the siding at an angle.
• Fastener heads should be snugged up against the siding, non driven into the surface.
• The end of each plank making up a butt articulation needs to be fastened to a stud.
• Nail butt joints last. That way you can tweak the ends of each plank and then the lesser edges line upward perfectly.

Preassemble the corners

Use a finish nailer for trim

Information technology'southward a lot easier to preassemble corners on a flat surface. Jaime uses 2-i/4-in. galvanized nails in his 15-approximate trim gun. He uses the same size nails to install the corners on the wall. Don't use a framing gun or effort to handnail the corners together; that'southward a skilful way to break the trim boards. As well, the trim nails await better where nails will be exposed, particularly on a prefinished corner board. So, if you lot don't accept a 15-judge trim gun, what a perfect "opportunity" to go buy one.

Install fiber cement using a few special techniques

Photo 1: Staple building paper to the sheathing

Mark stud locations at the tiptop and bottom of the wall. Staple building paper to the wall sheathing, lapping top pieces over bottom pieces by at least 2 in. Fit and slide paper behind the window trim.

Photo 2: Nail furring strips at the superlative of the wall

Snap chalk lines to marking the frieze board location and nail treated furring strips along the lines. Keep the lesser strip 1/four in. above the bottom line.

Photo iii: Utilize a circular saw to cut the frieze board

Cut the frieze board to length with a circular saw, using a rafter bending foursquare every bit a cut guide. True up cut ends with a rasp or a sanding block.

Photo 4: Predrill holes for easy installation

Predrill and nail the frieze boards, driving 2 galvanized box nails into each stud. Hold the nails at least three/4 in. from the edges. Drive the nailheads snug with the surface of the siding. Do non overdrive them. Employ caulk at the corner lap articulation before installing the 2nd piece.

Photo 5: Nail upward the corners boards

Install the corner boards, lapping 1 over the other with caulk in the articulation. Nail every 16 in. with a pair of 8d galvanized box nails.

Within corner detail

Lap inside corners the aforementioned way equally exterior corners.

The layout process is exactly the same as for forest siding. Marking the stud locations with a pencil on the soffit and foundation where they won't be covered by the edifice paper. Install the edifice paper (Photo ane), so follow your stud location marks and snap chalk lines (Photograph ii) to guide both your nailing and your placement of siding joints. We're also using fiber cement trim boards. Since they're only 7/16 in. thick, rip 3/8-in. thick strips from treated two-past lumber and use them to fur out the frieze boards (Photo ii). Now they'll sit about 1/eight in. above the lap siding.

Cut the frieze board to length (Photo 3). Fiberboard cement siding is highly annoying. Even a carbide tooth blade will last for only function of the day. At dwelling centers, you can buy diamond blades made specifically for cutting cobweb cement. These blades cut quickly and create less dust. But we had success with a less expensive dry-cut, diamond masonry blade. Drill cutouts for electrical boxes and pipes with regular twist bits or spade bits, and make interior or even curved cuts with a jigsaw fitted with a tungsten or carbide grit bract (these blades are available at home centers and tile stores). Cutting fiberglass cement siding raises a lot of silica dust, so work outside and wear a dust mask.

Nail up the frieze board by drilling ane/eight-in. pilot holes and driving two galvanized box nails at each stud (Photograph 4). Your boom length may vary from ours depending on the type of exterior sheathing used on your dwelling house. In full general, use nails that penetrate the studs at to the lowest degree ane in. Drive the nailheads snug against the fiber cement board. If driven also deep, the heads will crush the fiber cement board and reduce the nail's holding power. Don't nail cobweb cement corners together (Photograph 4). A nail driven into the edge of a fiber cement board will divide information technology.

Side by side make the outside corner (Photograph v), following the same steps every bit for the frieze boards. Exist sure the bottoms of the corner boards embrace about 1/ii in. of the foundation.

Tip:

If you don't have admission to a table saw, buy a sheet of 1/two-in.treated plywood and rip furring strips with a circular saw.

Circumspection!

Cut outdoors, wear a dust mask to avoid breathing the grit, and keep others away.

Layout the siding courses

Photo 6: Marking the siding course locations

Mark the top of each siding class using the story pole equally a guide (see "Making a Story Pole."). Then snap chalk lines to continue each course directly.

Photograph seven: Install the first course of siding

Nail a 3/8-in. treated starter strip along the bottom of the wall. Then cut and nail the first course of siding along the layout line. Go out a one/eight-in. gap at the end, and nail at each stud with a single 8d galvanized box nail held 1 in. down from the pinnacle edge.

Butt joint particular

Butt the siding courses tight together.

End joint item

Leave a pocket-sized gap between the siding and the corner trim.

With the trim boards completed, lay out the siding courses with a story pole. (See "Making a Story Pole.") Hold the meridian of the story pole snug against the frieze board and mark out the siding courses (Photograph half-dozen) at all corners and around windows and doors. Following these layout marks, snap horizontal chalk lines. Call back that these layout lines represent the summit of each siding course.

Rip and boom up a 3/8-in. thick treated wood starter strip along the lesser of the wall (above the foundation). This strip will tip the first slice of siding to the proper angle. Measure and cutting to length the outset slice of siding and nail information technology in place (Photo 7).

Leave a i/8-in. gap where the end meets the corner board (Photo 7, inset) and make certain the other stop lands on a stud line. Install the side by side piece so its end butts lightly against the starting time (Photograph vii, inset). Continue with the siding courses, aligning the top edges to the layout chalk lines. Be certain to stagger the butt joints so they don't lie on meridian of each other as you piece of work your way up.

Tip:

Pros use pneumatic scroll nailers (you tin can rent one) designed specifically for fiberboard cement siding. They cut nailing time in half. If you go this route, practice first to brand sure the nailheads will be ready flush.

Making a Story Pole

Cut a straight 1×2 so its length runs from the frieze lath to the bottom of the beginning siding class. Measure up from the lesser of the story pole to marker the total width of the first grade of siding. Remember, this mark represents the top of the siding piece, not the lesser of the second course.

From this signal, make marks upwardly the pole at the recommended exposure for your siding. The elevation course should exist at least ii-thirds the width of the lower courses. Cheque your layout marks confronting window and door openings and other features effectually the house, and suit the exposure to avoid having to rip narrow pieces.

When the concluding layout is OK, draw heavy lines on the face and both edges of the story pole using a square. Now concord the story pole tight against the frieze board at all corners and alongside windows and doors. Transfer the layout marks to the wall and snap chalk lines. This will ensure that all the siding courses go on directly and uniformly.

Remove the plastic last

Protect prefinished cobweb cement lath

Prefinished fiberglass cement siding boards come up with a protective plastic coating. To protect the paint from getting scratched during installation, get out the plastic on and make your cuts correct through it. Pare away the plastic later the board has been fastened to the wall.

Flash the butt joints

Keep water out

Caulking butt joints is unnecessary, and some manufacturers prohibit information technology. However, you should flash backside the joints. You tin can utilize metal, house wrap or whatsoever other approved WRB (atmospheric condition-resistant barrier), but Jaime prefers to use thirty-lb. felt paper. It's easy to work with and inexpensive, and it isn't noticeable if a seam happens to open up a fiddling. Tack it to the wall and then it doesn't become knocked out of identify when you lot install the 2nd piece of siding.

Spacing for Fiber Cement Board Joints

Fiber cement boards don't expand and contract much, but get out a footling room for expansion at the end joints and then fill up the gap with caulk. Butt joints, however, should be nailed tightly together and should non be caulked. Make sure all barrel joints are on studs, and stagger the butt joints as yous work your mode upward the wall.

Windows need drip cap and a gap on top

Window and door detail

Whether or not you're installing trim boards around your windows, you'll demand to install a baste cap over the window. You'll also demand to leave a ane/four-in. gap (no caulking) between the top of the window and the plank or trim board directly above it. This is to allow whatever water that may have gotten behind the siding to weep out. Record the drip cap to the wall, but don't record all the style to the bottom of the drip cap considering it will be visible through the 1/4-in. gap. The elevation trim lath will also demand its own baste cap and one/4-in. gap. Treat the tops of doors the same way.

It's a 2-man job without siding gauges

Siding gauges hold boards

Fiberboard cement siding is heavy and breaks if it's bent too much. Installing this stuff past yourself is tough, just it's possible with the aid of siding gauges. These tools not only create the proper reveal (the part of the siding that shows) between rows only also actually agree the planks in place while you boom. Even if you do just one fiber cement job, siding gauges are worth the money.

Gecko siding gauges

A pair of the SA902 Gecko Gauges shown here costs most $90 (available though our affiliation with amazon.com), but cheaper versions are available. Near gauges are adjustable to accommodate reveals from five to eight in.

Painted vs. Primed

We decided to use a prefinished product in this story, simply the other way to go is simple primed siding. That material is primed and ready for you to pigment. Here are some facts to consider when making your conclusion.

The advantages of primed: Primed products cost 50 percent less than prefinished products. On-site painting looks better upwardly close considering the touch-upwards pigment and caulked areas aren't equally noticeable. Primed products are easier and less expensive to install.

The advantages of prefinished: The colour on a prefinished production won't fade nearly as fast. Some finishes come with a 15-twelvemonth warranty. But the all-time role of using a prefinished production is that later on installation, you're done and not faced with painting an entire house.

Cut fiber cement boards with a circular saw

Dust mask is essential

When you lot're cut this stuff, a dust mask is the bare minimum protection, and this is non a casual alarm: The silica grit generated past cutting fiber cement can be bad news for your health!

Fiber cement board saw blade

You lot tin buy fiber cement blades sized to fit any saw mode or size at most home centers.

Tons of cobweb cement cutting gadgets are available, but most jobs can be handled with just a steady eye and a standard circular saw fitted with a fiber cement bract. If you programme to hang a lot of fiber cement, though, yous'll want a chop saw with a proper blade that will allow you to cut several pieces at one time.

Vinyl mounting blocks work best

Lights, receptacles and vents

Most fiber cement manufacturers make mounting blocks for lights, electrical receptacles, A/C lines, PVC venting, etc. Jaime prefers to use the vinyl mounting blocks typically used with vinyl siding. They're cheaper and easy to install, and you can cut the proper-size hole in a plastic mounting block with a utility knife or a snips. With fiber cement blocks, you have to utilize a jigsaw or a hole saw.

MountMaster is one brand of blocks sold at Lowe'south and many lumberyards. It's available in more than 25 colors, but yous tin order paintable blocks if you want an exact lucifer with your siding or trim.

Paint, prime or caulk all cut edges

Barrel joint

Paint cutting edges at butt joints.

End joint

Caulk edges that butt confronting corners and trim.

Every fourth dimension you lot cut a plank, you create an exposed surface that has no primer or pigment to protect it from the elements. If a cut edge is going to barrel up against a corner post or trim board, it gets caulked. If the cut edge is part of a barrel joint in the centre of the wall, information technology needs to be painted (try to apply factory edges on all butt joints). Planks that have been cutting to fit over windows and doors too demand paint. Order paint kits and caulking to match both the trim and the siding colors. Your siding supplier should accept access to both.

The Lowdown on Clearances

Fiberboard cement siding is not bulletproof—information technology will deteriorate if exposed to h2o for a long time. It'due south imperative that you lot honor the proper spacing between the siding and the roof surfaces and between the siding and the horizontal surfaces, such as the ground or cement slabs and decks. Bank check with your specific manufacturer before you start. Here are some full general guidelines.

Leave:

• 1/8 in. to one/four in. between siding and trim
• 1/iv in. betwixt siding and horizontal flashing
• 1 in. betwixt the gutter and an adjacent wall
• 2 in. between siding and covering, decks, patios, driveways, steps and walkways (using PVC trim boards is a good fashion to accomplish these clearances)
• 6 in. between the siding and the ground.

Don't skip the kick-out flashing

Kick-out flashing

Kicking-out flashing is essential for preventing h2o from running down a roof and backside the siding on an adjacent wall. You'll neglect your inspection if the inspector doesn't see it on your task. Information technology's a hurting to work around, but it helps if y'all don't boom the flashing tight until you have your siding cut to size. It'due south much easier to go a proper fit for a plank if you tin shift the flashing beneath it.

Cutting fiber cement lath around openings

Mark the siding to fit effectually windows

Hold the siding snug under the windowsill and marker the window border location. And so measure from the chalk line to the top of the siding. Add together 1/8 in. to your measurement. This is the width of the cutout.

Install the notched siding under the window

Cut out the notch with your saw and slide the piece into place, leaving a 1/8-in. gap between the siding and windowsill. Caulk this gap later on. Predrill and nail at each stud, including under the window.

Make cutouts with a jigsaw

Drill a 3/8-in. hole at the corner with a standard twist drill chip. Cut along the line with a jigsaw fitted with a carbide grit blade. And so nail upwardly the piece of siding.

Notch to get around windows and doors. Be sure to allow a 1/viii-in. gap where the siding meets the window trim and sill. This joint will be caulked later. Smash the top edge of the siding along the windowsill at each stud. These nailheads volition be exposed, but the paint will cover them.

Notch to go around windows

Photograph eight: Mark the siding to fit nether windows

Agree the siding snug under the windowsill and mark the window border location. Then measure from the chalk line to the top of the siding. Add 1/8 in. to your measurement. This is the width of the cutout.

Photo 9: Install the notched siding nether the window

Cutting out the notch with your saw and slide the piece into place, leaving a 1/8-in. gap between the siding and windowsill. Caulk this gap later on. Predrill and blast at each stud, including under the window.

Photo 10: Mark cutouts in the siding

Hold siding in identify under wall penetrations such equally this electrical box. Mark the width and top of the cutout. Caution: Plow off the power to the receptacle before removing it from the box.

Photograph 11: Brand the cutout with a jigaw

Drill a 3/8-in. pigsty at the corner with a standard twist drill bit. Cutting along the line with a jigsaw fitted with a carbide dust blade. Then nail up the slice of siding.

Photo 12: Cut and install the top course of siding

Cutting the tiptop course of siding to width and nail at each stud. Leave a 1/8-in. gap at the top edge. Fill all 1/8-in. gaps with acrylic latex caulk.

Notch to go around windows and doors (Photos eight and 9). Be certain to let a ane/eight-in. gap where the siding meets the window trim and sill. This joint will exist caulked after. Nail the top edge of the siding along the windowsill at each stud. These nailheads will be exposed, but the paint volition cover them.

Water intrusion effectually wall penetrations tin be a problem for any type of siding. Lay out and make the cutout for the electrical box (Photos 10 and 11). The electrical box cover is gasketed to seal out h2o. For pipes, electrical entries and like fixtures, fit the siding every bit tightly equally possible then seal with a polyurethane caulk or non-hardening electrician's putty. Rip the summit course of siding to width and nail it upwards (Photo 12). Concord these nails 1 in. below the acme edge. Once more, these nailheads will be exposed.

Purchase the siding already primed. If y'all prime number information technology yourself, use an alkali resistant primer. Caulk all the joints with an acrylic latex caulk earlier applying the final coats of paint. Be sure the caulk fills the 1/eight-in. articulation completely to keep it watertight. Cease-coat with a 100 percent acrylic latex paint.

Tip:

If you alive in a region of high rainfall or the wall is highly exposed to water, slip a 3-in. wide strip of edifice paper behind barrel joints. Be sure the lesser border of the paper laps on top of the lower course of siding.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY projection lined up earlier you start—you'll salve fourth dimension and frustration.

Yous'll also demand siding gauges, a fiber cement circular saw blade, a siding nailer and a 15 guess trim nailer.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid concluding-minute shopping trips by having all your materials prepare ahead of fourth dimension. Here's a list.

Originally Published: Feb 20, 2022

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